London Fashion Week September 2026: The Shows to Know
From Burberry and McQueen to UA in UK, Flair Fashion, SUNCUN, Oxford Fashion Studio and Ginny Litscher: the collections that caught our eye at LFW.
A butterfly poised on sheer organza. A gold dress opening like a flower. A runway experienced through headphones. London Fashion Week’s September 2026 edition offered plenty to remember beyond the familiar front-row faces.
The main London Fashion Week schedule ran from 17–21 September 2026, with designers largely presenting spring/summer 2027, or SS27. The wider week also made room for collections working to their own calendar. Big British names supplied the headlines; independent platforms gave us new designers to follow.
Here is Londonfy’s edit, from Burberry, McQueen and Christopher Kane’s Mulberry debut to UA in UK, Flair Fashion, SUNCUN, Oxford Fashion Studio and Ginny Litscher.
Burberry: Celia Birtwell brings a painterly touch ##
Daniel Lee’s Summer 2027 collection paired Burberry’s familiar wardrobe with the hand of textile artist Celia Birtwell. Her drawings of faces and flowers brought a different kind of character to the house’s vocabulary of checks, stripes and trench-coat details.
Shown at Chelsea College of Arts, the collection favoured washed silks and cottons, relaxed proportions and accessories with a tactile finish. Florals appeared on Derby shoes; the Sloane bag introduced woven leather. Even the trench became an opportunity for a visual trick, with trompe-l’oeil belts and epaulettes.
The appeal lies in the scale of the intervention. A print, a shoe or a bag can change the mood of an otherwise straightforward outfit. For readers looking for a usable idea from the catwalk, this was a particularly inviting place to start. Explore Burberry’s Summer 2027 collection.
McQueen and Mulberry: two returns with different ambitions ##
McQueen’s return to London, under Seán McGirr, used the city as both setting and subject. At the Undercroft of Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, SS27 moved between tailored formality and the atmosphere of a night out: smoked tulle, acid florals on glass organza, lacquered satin and leather harnesses.
The collaborations gave that tension substance. Huntsman worked with the house on three bespoke men’s silhouettes, while jeweller Shaun Leane supplied metal body adornment. Sculptural, wing-like tailoring set a different silhouette against the strict suits. London’s tailoring traditions and its appetite for dressing dramatically after dark found room in the same collection. See the McQueen show and looks.
Christopher Kane’s debut at Mulberry approached heritage through a recognisable object: the Bayswater bag. As Vogue’s runway review noted, its distinctive flap shape migrated into clothing, from the opening leather coat to layered skirts and other details. That is a neat proposition for a house so closely associated with accessories: let the bag’s design language help build the wardrobe around it. View Mulberry by Christopher Kane.
UA in UK: Ukrainian designers, with their own soundtrack ##
The eighth UA in UK Fashion Show took place on 18 September at BGV Hub, 120 Pall Mall, bringing together FÁBBY, SELERA and PASKAL.
Guests wore headphones for individual runway soundtracks, while a separate sound installation explored places and everyday life in Ukraine. The format made listening part of looking, giving each designer space within a more intimate presentation.
Anastasiia Portna’s FÁBBY presented RAVEN AW26: dark, sculptural womenswear built around black tones, leather, sheer mesh and feathers. Its autumn/winter designation is worth keeping distinct from the SS27 collections elsewhere in the week.
FÁBBY — RAVEN AW26, shown in London on 18 September 2026. Courtesy of UA in UK Fashion Show / Volkova Agency.
Valeriia Semchuk’s SELERA introduced Selera Atelier, a line focused on texture, considered shapes and limited materials. Alongside it, PASKAL, founded by architect-turned-designer Julie Paskal, brought a label recognised for delicate silhouettes and laser-cutting to the showcase.
SELERA — the Selera Atelier runway finale at BGV Hub. Courtesy of UA in UK Fashion Show / Volkova Agency.
PASKAL — a white floral look on the headphone-led runway. Courtesy of UA in UK Fashion Show / Volkova Agency.
The three names offer different starting points for discovery: FÁBBY for gothic drama, SELERA for a quieter wardrobe, and PASKAL for precision with a playful touch. Explore the UA in UK organisers’ work.
Flair Fashion: the details worth zooming in on ##
At One Great George Street on 19 September, Flair Fashion presented two multi-designer runways: IGNITE and UNFOLD. Their strength was variety, with designers using everything from elaborate handwork to a moving digital display to make their point.
At IGNITE, Gashani’s The Golden Hour offered the most immediate visual invitation. Sculpted corsetry, beadwork and petal-like forms led into a flowing chiffon finale. The gold flower-shaped look in our cover photograph captures the collection’s pleasure in turning a dress into a spectacle.
EL KHEMIE’s Department of Nocturnal Affairs took a more oblique route. Architect and designer Kassandra explored the hours between midnight and dawn, combining navy tailoring with silk organza coloured using botanical extracts, including teas. It is an appealing contrast of office associations and delicate, experimental surfaces.
EL KHEMIE — Department of Nocturnal Affairs. Photography: Rosslyn Photography (@rosslynphotography), courtesy of Flair Fashion / Dyelog PR.
Then there was VELESPACE x THE KONG IS DEAD: a circular digital TechCharm alongside slashed and painted denim, with red fabric visible beneath the cuts. Here, the accessory could move while the clothing carried its own deliberate marks and openings.
VELESPACE x THE KONG IS DEAD at IGNITE. Photography: Rosslyn Photography (@rosslynphotography), courtesy of Flair Fashion / Dyelog PR.
UNFOLD supplied another set of names to save. Belsize25’s Diana’s Bath translated a bathing-room reference into watery colour and draping. Hayal Couture’s Unseen Heritage brought Oya handcraft into contact with leather, metal eyelets and corsetry. FORPOEM’s Interbloom explored floral detail through feathered lapels, crochet flowers and fringe.
Belsize25 — Diana’s Bath. Photography: Rosslyn Photography (@rosslynphotography), courtesy of Flair Fashion / Dyelog PR.
Hayal Couture — Unseen Heritage. Photography: Rosslyn Photography (@rosslynphotography), courtesy of Flair Fashion / Dyelog PR.
FORPOEM — Interbloom. Photography: Rosslyn Photography (@rosslynphotography), courtesy of Flair Fashion / Dyelog PR.
Across the two shows, the interest was often in the close-up: how something was assembled, coloured or embellished. That rewards a second look long after the initial runway image.
SUNCUN: butterflies, embroidery and a change of mood ##
Yan Zhang’s SUNCUN presented Dreams Borne on the Wind at One Great George Street on 21 September. The collection drew on the philosophical story of Zhuang Zhou dreaming he was a butterfly, using transformation as a thread through the clothes.
The progression was part of the appeal. Relaxed tailoring in clay, sage, blue and grey gave way to longer, lighter silhouettes, layered lace and sheer organza. Three-dimensional butterflies, embroidery and beadwork made the surfaces increasingly intricate. Mandarin collars and belted, embroidered blazers kept a connection to structure even as the collection became more fantastical.
SUNCUN — embroidered tailoring from Dreams Borne on the Wind. Courtesy of SUNCUN / Dyelog PR.
An ivory crinoline with gold floral decoration provided the finale. Our takeaway is the contrast between the grounded opening and the delicacy that followed: the butterfly idea was supported by changes in shape and material, as well as ornament.
For anyone collecting references for occasion dressing, SUNCUN is a name to revisit for its balance of tailoring and elaborate craft.
Oxford Fashion Studio: a global cast at Devonshire Square ##
Oxford Fashion Studio’s 20 September programme brought 18 independent designers from 10 countries to Devonshire Square. Four runway presentations gave the day a useful structure: New Codes, Material Culture, Art + Identity, then a standalone finale from SORAMAME.
New Codes included names such as ick., Jellavu and FEGHALI. Material Culture put the emphasis on fibre, provenance and workmanship, with Alpaca Apparel, NART, Art in Situ, NEIGHTIV and Designs By Elle. Art + Identity ranged across labels including JAJAABOR, Chapel Vvein, Mathis Guertin, Gillian Trask, Tresaire Ann and SuKaz.
New Codes — runway highlights
ick. — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Jellavu — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
FEGHALI — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Material Culture — runway highlights
Alpaca Apparel — SS27. Photography: Gianluca Carraro / Gorunway.com. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
NART — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Art in Situ — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
NEIGHTIV — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Designs By Elle — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Art + Identity — runway highlights
JAJAABOR — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Chapel Vvein — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Mathis Guertin — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Gillian Trask — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Tresaire Ann — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
SuKaz — SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
Vietnamese house SORAMAME 13 closed with Under Construction, a 30-look collection that treated identity as something continually remade. Sportswear, tailoring, eveningwear and utility shared the same collection, allowing softer and more structured ideas to sit together.
SORAMAME 13 — Under Construction, SS27. Courtesy of Oxford Fashion Studio.
The value of a programme like this is the opportunity to compare approaches. A reader drawn to materials can start with one group; someone interested in personal narrative can follow another. The organisers have released complete runway collections and individual lookbooks, making this a good platform to explore beyond a single hero look. Read more about Oxford Fashion Studio at Devonshire Square.
Ginny Litscher: an artist’s eye for the wardrobe ##
Ginny Litscher’s SS27 catwalk presentation was listed for 18 September at the Haymarket Hotel. Her work begins with detailed drawing and painting, then carries those images into textiles and clothing.
The designer’s published SS27 collection offers a vivid route into that world: an ivory slip dress with a blue dragon print, a baroque kaftan, an ornate red-and-gold paisley kimono robe and a botanical blouse. Bird imagery also appears, including a knitted black bird jumper.
What connects those pieces is the sense of a wardrobe built around an artist’s recurring subjects. Readers who love a statement print can follow the image itself from one kind of garment to another, choosing how much pattern they want to wear. Browse Ginny Litscher’s SS27 collection.
Watch Ginny Litscher’s SS27 show at the Haymarket Hotel. Official runway film shared by @ginnylitscher and @blackprgroup. Video: @kevyn.james.
Three ideas to take away from the week ##
Look closely at surfaces. Birtwell’s drawings at Burberry, SUNCUN’s embroidery and Flair’s experiments with handwork show how much of a collection’s character can live in the material and its treatment.
Save a designer, not just an outfit. If one look catches your attention, explore the rest of that designer’s collection. The independent showcases are particularly rewarding for finding a point of view that might disappear in a fast-moving feed.
Let one expressive piece do the work. A printed blouse, a sculptural accessory or a richly textured jacket offers a way to borrow the mood without recreating a runway look. That feels right for London, where personal combinations are often more interesting than a complete prescription.
For more designers, shopping discoveries and style stories, explore Londonfy’s Fashion section.
About this recap: Compiled from official collection information, September 2026 press releases and post-show reports supplied to Londonfy, with additional published runway coverage. Collection descriptions do not imply that every item is currently available to buy.
Cover photograph: Gashani Couture at Flair Fashion’s IGNITE runway, September 2026. Photography: Rosslyn Photography (@rosslynphotography), supplied through Flair Fashion’s official press image pack via Dyelog PR.